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Vanilla ice cream is America’s girl next door, the second most popular flavor in our $13 billion domestic frozen dairy industry. And for good reason: She’s sweet, creamy, and gets along with just about any dessert you can think of. Yet, while plenty of people are happy to line up at buzzy Instagram gelaterias for a scoop, come Tuesday’s quick dessert—and really, in this economy—I’m looking for salvation at home, in my freezer, under the ice-caked peas.
But which store-bought vanilla ice cream actually tastes good? To find out, we had eight BA staff members test nine different varieties, including Trader Joe’s, Häagen-Dazs, Whole Foods, Breyers, and Ben & Jerry’s—judging each for flavor, texture, and versatility. Nobody was surprised by the resulting stomach aches. “But I am shocked there’s so much bad vanilla ice cream out there,” said food editor Shilpa Uskokovic. Food director Chris Morocco agreed: “Vanilla is a fickle beast.” We ate each flavor as one should, which is to say from the carton. Some were too icy, others too fluffy. A couple were downright bad. But a few were really, really good.
Between scoops (and group naps in the cafeteria), here’s what we thought of nine popular store-bought vanilla ice creams.
The Fluffiest (But Also Icy): Edy’s Vanilla Bean
The ice cream: This classic brand makes their ice cream with nine ingredients, which include both sugar and corn syrup, various gums to thicken the product and reduce ice crystals, and ground vanilla beans. Over a hundred Edy’s reviewers gave it 2.7 stars.
The taste: Despite the visible vanilla bean flecks, the flavor was sickly and fake. “This is the kind of ice cream that gives people reason to believe vanilla is not a real flavor,” said senior cooking editor Emma Laperruque. The texture was fluffy like a marshmallow, but reviewers agreed that’s not what you want from ice cream. “It’s too light,” said editorial director Serena Dai, “and also a bit icy.” That being said, test kitchen coordinator Ines Anguiano said she would use it in a float in a supporting role “where I don’t have to depend on quality.” After describing an undesirable “egg yolky” flavor, Morocco trailed off, “Actually, it’s sort of growing on me…”
The Iciest (But Kind of Okay): Häagen-Dazs Vanilla
The ice cream: A regular vanilla scoop from a brand beloved for its pared back approach to ice cream. Made from just five ingredients (skim milk, cream, sugar, egg yolks, and vanilla extract), this one is no different. Over 1,500 Häagen-Dazs reviewers gave it 4.5 stars.
The taste: Texture was the first thing our reviewers noticed, and then proceeded to argue about. They could all agree the carton was particularly icy—Laperruque’s plastic spoon cracked upon her first failed entry—but they were divided on whether that was a good thing. “It’s sort of sorbet-like,” Morocco says, “almost like an ice milk.” Associate food editor Zaynab Issa was into it. “It’s refreshing,” she says. “Milky but not creamy; definitely something I would eat on the beach.” Anguiano disagreed: “I would not eat this.” The vanilla flavor was mild, if not a little wan. This ice cream would be right at home in a flavored milkshake, where a little ice is fine and the vanilla needs to play nice.
The Airhead: Breyers Natural Vanilla
The ice cream: This supermarket stalwart makes its ice cream with just five ingredients (milk, cream, sugar, vegetable gum, and natural flavor). Over 300 Breyers reviewers gave it 3.7 stars.
The taste: Though the label doesn’t claim to include vanilla beans, tiny black dots are visible. Our reviewers oohed and aahed at them when we busted the lid off this one, because who doesn’t love to see the real deal? But after one taste, Morocco saw right through those fancy flecks: “This gives the illusion of vanilla ice cream, with none of the flavor.” Fake or not, others liked the classic vanilla notes, which weren’t as alcoholic-tasting as others. And Anguiano thought it was much creamier and more “dairy-forward” than the previous two. The texture did leave an oily slick in the mouth afterwards, noticed Uskokovic. It’s also “too fluffy and aerated,” added Laperruque.
The Most Balanced: Favorite Day Vanilla Bean
The ice cream: Target’s store brand vanilla ice cream has one of the lengthier ingredient lists, clocking in at 13 and including sugar, high fructose corn syrup, various gums and stabilizers, and something called “natural vanilla flavor with vanilla bean specks.” Over 350 Target reviewers gave it 4.7 stars.
The taste: This ice cream was a crowd favorite. Despite the fake flavor and imitation vanilla beans, reviewers couldn’t tell. “It’s very balanced,” says Morocco. “Smooth, light and creamy, not too rich, and eggy—but in a very nice custardy way.” Associate food editor Kendra Vaculin also appreciated that the ice cream didn’t taste “overly sweet.” The texture was pliable enough to eat immediately, and neither too dense nor too airy. It’s a nostalgic all-rounder that “would be perfect with a fruit pie,” says Dai.
The Most Artificial-Tasting: Tillamook Old-Fashioned Vanilla
The ice cream: This farmer-owned Oregonian brand makes their vanilla ice cream with nine ingredients, including cream, egg yolks, vanilla extract (which is different from vanilla essence or flavor), and some gums. Over 200 Target reviewers gave it 5 stars.
The taste: Tillamook was comparable to Favorite Day. But despite the relatively low-key ingredient list, a lot of factors about this ice cream felt noticeably more artificial to our reviewers. “It has a weird aftertaste,” says Morocco. All agreed it’s the type of nostalgic fake vanilla we would have loved as kids, though. The texture was light and creamy, but it didn’t seem to melt much despite hanging out at room temperature for about 40 minutes—which didn’t help to alleviate the phony vibes. Still, the ice cream wasn’t too sweet and was texturally balanced. Not a bad companion for your warm brownie, Laperruque thought.
The “Just Here for the Texture”: Trader Joe’s French Vanilla
The ice cream: Of course, America’s cult-favorite supermarket chain makes vanilla ice cream. TJ’s uses eight ingredients, like cream, milk, cane sugar, natural vanilla flavor, and a stabilizer blend.
The taste: “This texture is gold,” said Anguiano. It’s “smooth and creamy,” agreed Laperruque. Dai nodded and confirmed: “Among the best.” That being said, the flavor scored lower marks than others. “The vanilla is really amped up,” said Morocco, frowning. Everyone agreed it tasted a little phony and reeked of alcohol. But Dai said she wouldn't mind it with a drizzle of olive oil and dollop of jam.
The Ice-Cream Sandwich Pick: Whole Foods 365 Vanilla
The ice cream: Whole Foods store-brand riff on the classic is made with eight ingredients, like cream, vanilla extract, a blend of stabilizers, and annatto extract for color.
The taste: This ice cream was best summarized by Morocco: “It is what fake tan is to tan.” In other words, 356 Vanilla was a pretty decent dupe of something like Favorite Day, but noticeably less good. “I don’t really feel like it’s trying, you know?” said Laperruque. Others thought the vanilla notes were slightly artificial tasting, but not totally off putting. Combined with the soft, malleable texture, this would be “ideal for an ice cream sandwich,” said Dai.
The Runner-Up: Whole Foods 365 Organic Vanilla Bean
The ice cream: Whole Foods 365 has not one but two horses in this race. Its Organic Vanilla Bean ice cream is similar to the regular variety, with the inclusion of real vanilla beans and annatto extract for color.
The taste: Of all the ice cream we ate (a lot), this one had the most “turbo-charged” vanilla flavor, Morocco said. It was super aromatic and pronounced without tasting phony; a win for vanilla stans but perhaps too much for the kiddos or floral-averse. “Maybe more vanilla isn’t necessarily better,” Morocco continued. The visible vanilla beans, however, were much appreciated all round. “I’m a sucker for a fleck,” said Dai.
The Standout: Ben & Jerry’s Vanilla
The ice cream: This iconic brand with sky blue packaging uses eight ingredients, including cream, sugar, egg yolks, vanilla beans and extract, and carrageenan, which binds, thickens, and stabilizes. A dozen Ben & Jerry’s reviewers rated the ice cream 4.8 stars.
The taste: After a first bite, Morocco wiggled delightedly in his seat. The flavors, he thought, were “very nicely integrated,” like there wasn’t “too much of any one thing going on.” The only drawback, he thought, was a potential lack of versatility. “This might be too rich to pair with a heavy dessert. With both the beans and extract, the vanilla flavor tasted spot on; lightly floral and toasty but not overpowering. “I’m getting a whiff of rum,” said Uskokovic. The texture was another selling point. Ben & Jerry’s was the most noticeably dense, creamy, and almost chewy of all the ice creams we tried. “It feels expensive,” said Issa. “She’s definitely bougie.”